And
remember give a Brush Turkey a hug today (metaphorically speaking),
and revel in our good fortune at having these ancient megapodes
as neighbours. Cheers to all the wildlife and plants that
are taking advantage of us for a change!
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How
to Get More Plants for Your Money with Bush Regeneration!
By
Spencer Shaw
The
following paper was presented at the Brisbane AABR (Australian
Association of Bush Regenerators) in 2001
This
tale starts as a story of planting trees to save our local
forests but ends with the realization that trees are perfectly
capable of planting themselves.
Even better still trees can plant themselves for far cheaper
than we can!
The
Scene
Earth
Valley Rainforest Retreat. 30 + acres of remnant rainforest,
1.5km northwest of Maleny on the Blackall Range, Queensland.
Average yearly rainfall is 2.5 metres. Previous landuse has
seen some timber removal, and ‘bush’ grazing.
The terrain is very steep and rocky, altitude is approx. 350
- 300 metres (some slopes are so radical we have pioneered
the new sport of “lantana tobogganing”). A permanent
watercourse runs through the property. Over 230 plant species
have so far been recorded on the property and the list is
still growing, for such a small remnant the species diversity
is still very high – a snap shot of the magnificent
forests that once covered the Blackall Range.
The
Problem
Large patches of lantana have become established on the property
due to disturbance from timber extraction, grazing and natural
treefall. Lantana grows as an incredibly thick blanket of
foliage in our local conditions, suppressing the germination
of native seedlings and breaking branches on any plants that
are able to grow. The arrival of lantana in our local ecosystem
at best slows the process of natural regeneration, I suspect
at worst that it may prevent regeneration altogether.
The
Solution?
Two years ago the solution seemed to be to clear the lantana
and plant trees.
The property owner sought funding to assist in this work,
and received several grants for materials for onground work
i.e. for plant purchase, herbicide and fencing. However no
or little funding was available for the labour to prepare
sites or plant tubestock.
The
Discovery
After assisting the landholder to clear the lantana in winter
and waiting for early summer rains to plant we discovered,
while planting that massive germination of native and exotic
(e.g. Solanum mauritianum) pioneers was taking place on the
site with up to 20 seedlings per m2.
Planting trees soon appeared unnecessary but plants had been
purchased already and were planted. This involved what now
appeared to be a large amount of unnecessary labour by the
landholder and friends (1000+ plants had to be carried 15
min.’s to the sites for starters!)
From here on in – no or very little planting is considered
necessary.
The
Lesson
What we learnt from all this (as I’m sure many have
before us) is that the labour involved in Regeneration is
far less than that for Revegetation. Also (perhaps even more
importantly)we realized that funding organizations would get
much better value for money if they targeted their money at
regeneration rather than tubestock in situations such as those
at Earth Valley. The labour component for regeneration in
this situation is less than half that would be required for
revegetation. The cost of plants alone for revegetation would
more than cover the labour component of regeneration and see
more trees established per acre if spent on skilled regenerators
rehabilitating a site.
Regeneration
vs Revegetation
The
following is an example of the costing of a Revegetation or
Regeneration project based on 1 acre of lantana surrounded
by or bordering existing rmnant rainforest with a maintenance
component of 1 year. The figures are purely theoretical (every
site varies) but I believe accurately contrast the cost effectiveness
of regeneration - where this is feasible.
REVEGETATION
COSTING
| TASK |
TIME |
RATE* |
SUB
TOTAL |
| Clearance |
48
hrs** |
$22.00/hr |
$1056.00 |
| Spray
(regrowth) |
8
hrs |
$22.00/hr |
$176.00 |
| Maintenance |
@
4th month - 8 hrs |
$22.00/hr |
$176.00 |
| Maintenance |
@
8th month - 8 hrs |
$22.00/hr |
$176.00 |
| Maintenance |
@
12th month - 8hrs |
$22.00/hr |
$176.00 |
| Planting
& Watering |
80
hrs |
$22.00/hr |
$1760.00 |
| Herbicide
1 litre |
@$10.00/litre |
|
$10.00 |
| |
TUBESTOCK |
|
|
| 1
acre |
1000
trees |
$1.65/tree(GST
inc.) |
$1650.00 |
| |
|
|
|
| |
|
TOTAL |
$5180.00 |
*Based
on existing revetation rates on the Blackall Ranges.
**Extra time may be required for breaking up lantana to make
an area plantable.
REGENERATION
COSTING
| TASK |
TIME |
RATE* |
SUB
TOTAL |
| Clearance |
40
hrs |
$35.00/hr |
$1400.00 |
| Spray
(regrowth) |
8
hrs |
$38.00/hr |
$304.00 |
| Maintenance |
@
4th month - 8 hrs |
$33.00/hr |
$264.00 |
| Maintenance |
@
8th month - 8 hrs |
$33.00/hr |
$264.00 |
| Maintenance |
@
12th month - 8 hrs |
$33.00/hr |
$264.00 |
| Herbicide
1 litre |
@$10.00/litre |
|
$10.00 |
| 1000
+ trees established |
|
|
|
| |
|
TOTAL |
$2242.00 |
*Based
on AABR schedule of rates for Bush Regeneration Contractors.
Even
though the figures I use put a regenerators wage at 50% greater
than that for revegetation, overall costs for the regeneration
project is nearly half of that for revegetation. Food for
thought for the funding organizations.
Spencer
Shaw
September 2004
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Practical
Vegetation Restoration Advice
by
Spencer Shaw
Why
Revegetate?
The
Blackall Range and surrounding areas is home to an incredible
diversity of native flora and fauna. Many of our ecosystems
are inhabited by species found only in this area and some
of these species may be facing certain extinction -unless
we conserve and enhance what we have now, it may be too late.
The
establishment of local plant species and ecosystems on your
property will provide many benefits for the environment and
for you. Some of the reasons for carrying out revegetation
projects are:
-
They look great!
-
You can provide food and habitat for native wildlife.
-
You can create wildlife corridors/linking or enhancing remnant
patches of native vegetation.
-
You can improve biological pest control in your garden or
crops by providing habitat for a wide range of predators
(eg. frogs, owls and other predatory birds, insectivorous
birds and bats, predatory insects, carnivorous mammals and
lizards)
-
You can increase land values and aesthetics – land
values are actually increasing for land with native vegetation.
-
You can control landslips, soil erosion and stabilise creek
banks.
-
You can improve water quality through revegetation because
natural vegetation can filter silt, nutrients and chemical
contaminants and also provides shade, food and habitat for
stream life.
-
You can improve the production of your land -through biological
pest control, off stream watering, windbreaks, shade, utilisation
of marginal land, fodder trees and crop diversity.
-
You could diversify the production of your land through
bushfoods, farm forestry etc…
-
You can help maintain our area as one of the world biodiversity
hotspots
-
You can make a difference.
Priority Areas for Revegetation
Well-planned revegetation works can enhance production and
need not compete with prime agricultural areas. Priority areas
of planting of local species may be slips or unstable sites,
riparian zones (creek banks), windbreaks, marginal land (boggy,
saline, steep, poor soil or windy) or potential corridors.
A well-planned time line can also be very important ensuring
that manageable areas are taken on in stages, don’t
take on too much! This can help you avoid plant losses, financial
pressures and unnecessary stress - it’s meant to be
enjoyable!
Revegetation
or Regeneration?
Revegetation
is the technique of planting trees, shrubs etc… to re-establish
native vegetation.
Highly disturbed sites or those devoid of naturally occurring
trees may be in need of revegetation works. This may involve
fencing out stock, reintroducing native plants as seedlings
and /or introducing seed through direct seeding.
Regeneration
is a natural process where seeds of native species naturally
grow and re-establish.
To encourage this may simply mean fencing out stock (or reducing
there numbers) and sensitive weed removal - to allow the natural
processes to take their course. If natural diversity is poor,
some seedling trees or understorey plants may be added to
enhance the existing diversity. Regeneration is when nature
does most of the work, making this a very cost-effective procedure
– but requiring a good understanding of the natural
processes of your site.
Species
selection
The
selection of plant species for a site is vital for the overall
success of a revegetation project. It is always a good idea
to take note of the species and forest types on site or on
similar adjacent sites. Plants for the site should be grown
from locally collected seed. Seed from the site itself could
be grown on for replanting work. Some factors effecting plant
selection include :
-
Soil ( and variations found on the property)
-
Frost (heavy, light or not at all)
-
Drainage
-
Rainfall
-
Aspect (winds, sun and moisture)
-
Maintenance (methods used or time and resources available)
-
Fire (possibility and frequency)
-
Specific issues (eg. land stabilisation, production needs,
habitat enhancement)
A
wide range of locally occurring species is always recommended
for all plantings. These local plants need little or no maintenance
once established, because they have adapted to local conditions.
A large diversity of plants will cater for a large diversity
of native animals, while ensuring a stable and adaptable ecosystem.
Non-local species are best grown in areas other than revegetation
sites, creek banks or adjacent to existing bushland, to avoid
seed spread.
Always select healthy looking plants. No matter what discounts
may be offered! Your main aim should be to achieve quick early
growth and fast weed suppression. Any gaps in the canopy will
cost more in maintenance that the price of strong and healthy
plants. Quick to moderate growing species are usually best
purchased as tubes, while slower growing species can be planted
in 140 mm pots, bags or larger. Try and acquire air-pruned
tubes and avoid pot bound or sickly stock at all times. When
planting open sites it is best to use sun hardened stock.
Sometimes plants may need drought hardening, especially when
the nursery irrigates numerous times each day or when you
plant towards the end of a wet season. Products such as Envy
an antitranspirant, reduce water loss and can help reduce
the shock of planting in hot weather, enquire with your nursery
if they can pretreat stock for you.
Types
of Plants
Pioneers
Pioneers
are the very quick growing species that first colonise a site
after it has been disturbed. Many of the pioneer species or
colonisers are relatively short-lived, but quickly create
a better environment for your mature phase species to grow.
Pioneers can often fruit early (within 2-3 years) providing
a food source for the local wildlife. Overall numbers of pioneers
in initial plantings may consist of 30-50% pioneers, best
spread quiet evenly through the patch. Examples are the Acacia’s
and Bleeding heart.
Mature Phase Trees
These
trees are there for the long term with some species upto 1000
years. Some are fast such as the Blue quandong Elaeocarpus
grandis and White cedar Melia azederach and
Ideally these fast mature phase species should be well scattered
through your patch to ensures long term canopy closure quickly,
thus reducing weed invasion and maintenance. Bushy shrubs
and small trees are also suitable as edge plants, helping
to reduce wind and sun on the forest floor. Edge plants may
be planted at a greater density to improve the barrier effect
against weeds and the elements.
Understorey and Vines
Understorey
plants cover the ground between the larger trees and shrubs,
providing a vital habitat for small birds and animals. Any
areas where a canopy is already established on your property
can be planted underneath. You may need to plan a secondary
planting after about 2 or 3 year to establish these species
when sufficient shade and shelter have developed. Vines are
an integral part of our local rainforests but it may be worth
waiting several years before establishing vines in your revegetation
site so that the trees are sufficiently strong enough to hold
them.
A
multi-layered forest reduces soil erosion, provides better
windbreaks, improves soil fertility through legumes and other
quick maturing pioneer species, controls most weeds and provides
improved biological pest control through the encouragement
of predatory insects and insectivorous birds, frogs, reptiles,
bats and mammals.
Site
preparation
Soil
Weed
growth should be removed from the area to be planted in a
circle at least 1 metre in diameter. This can be done by chipping
grass or weeds back in a circle between ½ to 1 metre
in the spot to be planted. Spraying herbicide (at least 3
weeks prior to planting) is also a quick option and this can
be done in the form of spot spraying, which is spraying just
the spot to be planted or blanket spraying which is spraying
of all vegetation ie. grass in the area to be planted. Spot
or blanket mulching is also an option particularly for grassy
or bare areas. When mulch is applied thickly (between 100
–200mm) and left for several weeks or even several months
prior to planting soil quality can be improved immeasurably,
allowing easier planting and establishment of your plants.
This technique is great on the heavy dark clay soils of the
range.
On loose friable loams no soil preparation may be required
but heavier soils may require mechanical intervention if they
have been compacted. But there are arguments both for and
against ripping before planting. Planting may be easier in
soil that had been ripped and water penetration and root growth
rate may be increased but be aware that erosion may be accelerated,
particularly in gullies or flood zones and root growth may
be somewhat 2 dimensional, causing instability to established
plants.
Tree hole augers can be useful for larger scale plantings
saving a great deal of work but adding extra cost. Post hole
augers should not be used, only specially designed tree planting
augers can roughen the sides of the hole and avoid smooth
hardened surfaces that can prove impenetrable to plant roots.
Shovels and even mattocks in heavier soils may also prove
detrimental to good root development by creating a flat-bottomed
hole and causing taproots to assume an L-shape. A long-nosed
pick is the ideal tool for planting trees, giving a rough
sided hole (not tool large) with a pointed bottom for accumulating
water and encouraging good taproot development. Soil conditioners
such as gypsum or cover crops may be worth investing in to
improve soil structure prior to planting. On loose friable,
loamy soils such as the red soils of Maleny you need only
dig a hole the a little deeper than the size of the pot to
be planted. On heavier soils however you may wish to loosen
a larger area – say twice the size of the pot to be
planted to allow quicker root penetration of the surrounding
soil by your plant.
Don’t place your plant too deep in the whole you have
dug but remember to always cover the potting mix of your plant
with about one cm of soil to prevent your plant from drying
out too quickly. Uncovered potting mix can act as a wick and
dry out very fast. Another useful tip for hot weather or fast
drying soils is the use of water crystals or wetting agents.
These products absorb massive amounts of water in proportion
to their size and improve the soils ability to hold water
- use them as their manufacturers recommend.
Remember time spent improving the quality of your soil will
improve tree growth immeasurably over the long term.
Spacing
Initially,
the ideal average spacing for rainforest plantings is between
1.5 and 2 metre – between 1000 and 1250 plants per acre.
This density of planting allows for a mix of pioneers, mature
phase species and some sun hardy understorey plants. Tree
planting spacings can be increased on this suggestion, however
overall growth may be reduced and time to achieve canopy may
increase.
In crucial sites eg creek banks, slips zones or screen plantings
density me be increased to as high as one per metre.
Mulch
Mulching
is important for all plants if they are to flourish. Mulch
helps retain soil moisture, insulates the soil, improves structure
and fertility of soil, increases soil life and suppresses
weeds. This means less maintenance and healthy plants. Mulching
hay to a depth of at least 150 mm or woodchip to 75-100 mm
and to a diameter of at least 1m is ideal. Wood chip is more
difficult to distribute, especially on slopes and may reduce
nitrogen available to plants in the early stages of decomposition.
The use of increased quantities of nitrogen rich fertilisers
in the first 12 months will help compensate for this, keeping
in mind quick early growth is vital for successful revegetation.
Various mulch mats are also available made from natural fibres
such as jute or synthetic products. Mulch mats can be costly
but are easier to handle, light and easy to put in place.
Rolls of mulch matting (such as Jute Master) are also available
and although costly may prove invaluable in stabilising creek
banks and steep slopes. Both mulch mats and mulch rolls require
pinning down to hold them in place.
Fertiliser
and Watering
All
plants will benefit from the application of soil improving
fertilisers when planting. Well rotted manure, Dynamic Lifter
or Organic Life are ideal. The use of organic fertilisers
and mulch contributes to building up the humus layer in the
soil that is essential for successful growing of many rainforest
species. Approximately 200g of pelletised fertiliser per dose
will be adequate in most cases (about 1 cup). Another option
is the use of fertiliser planting tablets (such as Agriform
or Langley) these can provide slow release fertiliser for
upto two years, that is released by biological activity in
the soil. They are also light, east to store and convenient
to use.
Dry schlerophyll and wallum species are tolerant to quite
poor soils, so do not really require additional nutrients.
Some species, such as Banksia, will probably suffer or even
die when fertilised with materials containing phosphorous.
If fertilisation on these types of plants is carried out,
a low phosphorous, slow release fertiliser is best.
An
initial watering-in will be necessary to settle the soil around
the roots and minimise stress. Follow-up watering will only
be required in the event of a drought, however young plants
should be monitored for signs of drying out especially in
the earliest stages of growth. It is much better to water
than to lose plants. As suggested in the chapter on Soil,
water crystals and wetting agents can prove to be vital in
improving survival in dry conditions.
Weed
Control
Site
preparation and follow-up weed control will be necessary to
ensure good plant growth. This can be done by hand, mechanically
ie brushcutters and slashers, using herbicides or a combination
of the three. To achieve a quick and successful start for
your planted seedlings or regeneration site weed growth must
be suppressed, some grasses for example release chemicals
through their roots that slow the growth of other plants.
Weeds can also compete for nutrients and light so their control
is essential. Fast tree growth will also increase shade and
weed maintenance will be reduced sooner.
Timing is also a crucial factor in weed control, if you allow
all your weeds to go to seed, spraying them with herbicide
may only create better conditions for those seed to germinate.
A good general rule when attempting to control certain weeds
is to start on the sparsest areas and work towards the densest
areas. This will inhibit the spread of problem weeds and enable
you to cover a larger area in a shorter time. When dealing
with larger areas of dense weed growth, it is preferable to
begin as early as 2 years in advance, to give time for follow-up
treatments of regrowth and replacement with a cover crop.
Large leaf privet, Small leaf privet, Camphor Laurel, Coral
Tree, Chinese Elm, Slash Pine and Pepper tree or other undesirable
existing trees may need to be completely removed from any
areas about to be planted, avoiding problems removing them
from establishing revegetation later and minimising seed spread.
These already established weeds will strongly compete for
light, nutrients and water, some species chemically inhibit
the growth of surrounding plants. Cutting off woody weeds
at or above ground level and swabbing with the appropriate
will leave the roots to rot in the ground, thus not disturbing
the soil. However in some areas where the existing vegetation
comprises totally of weeds it may be desirable to selectively
remove weed species over a longer time frame so as not to
endanger wildlife that may be relying on the weed species
for survival.
Drilling
several holes or cutting into the bark at the base of the
tree and filling with herbicide can also kill Woody weeds.
The result looks a bit ugly in visual areas and may lead to
damage of establishing trees later on, but this method is
more cost/time effective and provides perches for birds. This
method is very useful in areas where there is existing native
vegetation that would be damage by felling the weed trees.
Infestation
of weeds such as Blackberry, Yellowberry, Moth Vine, Morning
Glory, Madeira Vine and Cats Claw may need a combination of
manual and spray control. Please contact your local weed inspector
about the chemicals and methods suitable for control of these
particular weeds.
Good
hand tools for woody weed control may cost a bit but will
save you hours of frustration. A good pruning saw and sharp
secateurs or loppers are essential tools.
Cover
crops
Inexpensive
cover crops can be sown before or after planting. Varieties
such as sterile Ryegrass (autumn/winter) or Japanese Millet
(spring/summer) can be very useful in several ways :
Minimising flood damage and controlling erosion
Competing with harder to control, taller or more vigorous
weed species
Helping to break the weed seed cycle
Providing large quantities of mulch that doesn’t require
manual spreading
Trapping and providing nutrients before they are leached
Offering some frost protection to young seedlings
These varieties don’t grow too tall to compete with
young trees and die back after each session, so if maintenance
falls behind it doesn’t matter so much.
Non-sterile
cover crops can be slashed or sprayed before seed set, however
this does add to the expenses of plot maintenance. Cover crops
that climb (eg. Cowpea, Lab-lab and Desmondium) or self-sow
readily may create more problems than existing weeds and should
be avoided. The inclusion of low-growing (non-climbing) legumes
such as clover would improve soil fertility and are much easier
to control.
Fire
Eucalypts
can be cheap and fast growing plants but this can come at
a cost. Due to the high oil content in their leaves, eucalypts
and other local plants such melaleuca and callistemon species
can be explosive in bushfire situations and must be avoided
near houses, buildings, crops. etc. Rainforest plants, on
the other hand, are mostly fire retardant and are capable
of absorbing and inhibiting heat and sparks from fires. When
planting rainforest species in fire prone areas, provide adequate
firebreaks for back-burning and minimise fuel in surrounding
areas. Pioneer species near the edges help to reduce damage
to more valuable forest trees and they are most likely to
regenerate after fire.
The
above recommendations are based on the best knowledge currently
available by the author. Brush Turkey Enterprises and the
author accept no liability for the recommendations –
but wish you all the best with your revegetation or regeneration
endeavours.
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The
Much Misunderstood and Mistakenly Maligned Mistletoes
Families : Loranthaceae, Viscaceae, Santalaceae
by Spencer Shaw
Mention mistletoe to some folk and they will cross themselves,
produce wooden stakes, silver bullets, cloves of garlic and
sprinkle holy water about liberally. The thought of a plant
drawing on the bodily fluids of another plant for its survival
conjures up images of herbaceous vampires sucking the life
out of our trees. And lets face it being described scientifically
as a parasite just doesn’t generate any good press.
What possible good could these little triffids be doing out
there in nature I hear you say? Well I’m glad you asked.
There are 25 species of mistletoe of the family LORANTHACEAE
and 8 species of the family VISCACEAE found in SE Queensland
and also for good measure 10 species of the tree or shrub
‘mistletoes’ of the family SANTALACEAE. These
plants may draw on the moisture and mineral reserves of their
hosts but what many of us may not notice is what they give
back to the greater ecological community and the many species
of animals and insects that depend on them, some almost exclusively.
Research is now showing that mistletoes are a keystone resource
in forests and woodlands worldwide, that provide the habitat
enrichment on which numerous species depend. Mistletoes have
a disproportionate effect on the structure and function of
forested ecosystems in relation to their size, resulting in
increased biodiversity in most habitats.
So why have mistletoes been given such a bad rap? Well besides
the whole ‘parasite’ label being slapped on them,
there are perhaps awful memories of Christmas parties where
you where forced to kiss someone who you really didn’t
want to even shake hands with under the mistletoe! Mistletoes
can get out of hand in some environments contributing to tree
weakening or death, but as with most natural imbalances they
are not the cause but the symptom of greater ecological imbalance
– usually caused by, you guessed it Us! Perhaps the
predators of mistletoes are reduced in some disturbed environments
or conditions are more favourable for the mistletoe bird that
is their major agent of dispersal. Mistletoe birds are represented
in Australia by a single species Dicaeum hirundinaceum.
These little birds are mistletoe specialists with a specialised
digestive system that can draw enough nutrients from the sticky
pulp of the fruit but pass the seed through their digestive
tract within a ½ hour (now that’s what you call
regular) completely unharmed. Infact the seed have a long
sticky tail still as they pass through the digestive system
that necessitates the little birds to wipe their backsides
on a branch as they pass the seed, ensuring that the seed
is placed in the best position for it to grow. Several other
birds such as honeyeaters, silver eyes also eat the fruit
of mistletoe and many birds, possums, sugar gliders etc. take
advantage of their nectar rich flowers for a quick sugar hit.
There is also another intriguing set of animal – mistletoe
relationships between mistletoe, ant and butterfly. Most of
the butterflies known as ‘Azures’ of the genus
Ogyris are exclusive mistletoe feeders and many also require
the presence of specific ants. These butterflies and ants
have co-evolved in the presence of mistletoes. The butterflies
provide a variety of compounds (amino acids) secreted from
glands on the caterpillars to the ants, and in return the
ants provide protection to the caterpillars. Some Azures caterpillars
hide under bark or in borer holes and some caterpillars hide
in the ant nests during the day, and at night in the company
of ants travel upto a 40 metre return journey, to mistletoes
high up in eucalypts.
Mistletoes
are at their most diverse in Eucalypt and Dry Rainforest communities
and in these areas mistletoes are often quite specific in
what plants they will use as hosts. More amazingly their leaves
often mimic those of their host such as Amyema cambagei
the She Oak Mistletoe with its needle like foliage that lives
on Casuarina aand Allocasuarina sp. There are even mistletoes
that are specialists in ‘out mistletoe’ing other
mistletoes’ such as Notothixos subaureus the
Golden Mistletoe that live exclusively on other mistletoe’s.
One mistletoe species that does make a living in our local
rainforests is Amylotheca dictyophleba the Rainforest
Mistletoe, they have very attractive upright red flowers that
attract a variety of wildlife and live on a wide variety of
rainforest trees. I recently saw on the Mooloolah River an
Aphananthe phillipensis or Native Elm playing host
to A. dictyophleba that was in turn playing host
to N. subaureus. I’m sure if I had looked closer
there would have been some ants and some caterpillars, a flash
of red as a male mistletoe bird took flight and the smell
of brushtail possum pee from the previous nights feeding.
So
next time you see a Mistletoe don’t panic – the
apocalypse isn’t upon us. They are an important part
of the intricate web of life and if we keep playing with the
threads we will all come undone. It could even be argued that
it is worthwhile “planting” mistletoes on our
gardens and reveg’ plots to enhance diversity and return
them to areas they have disappeared from through land clearing.
But that’s another story. 
Some
Local mistletoes and their hosts
Amyema cambagei on Casuarina, Allocasuarina sp.
Amyema congener on Acacia, Casuarina, Callistemon
sp.
Amyema conspicuum on Alphitonia excelsa
Amylotheca dictyophleba on various Rainforest and
Camphor Laurels
Notothixos subaureus on other mistletoes
Dendrophthoe vitellina on various tree species mainly
Myrtaceae
References:
The Misunderstood Mistletoe- friend or foe? By Murdoch De
Baar, Between The Leaves, 1993, pp. 14
‘Mistletoe - a keystone resource in forests and woodlands
worldwide’ .David M Watson.
Mangroves to Mountains, Logan River Branch S.G.A.P (Qld Region)
Inc.
Flora os south-eastern Queensland Vol 1, Stanley & Ross.
Butterfly Host Plants of south-east Queensland, John T. Moss
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The
Frost Factor
by Spencer Shaw
Its that time of year when those of us who have planted trees
over the past year, make our way to our tree planting’s
after still and clear nights with a slight sense of dread
as to what damage frost may have wreaked upon our young planting’s.
Frost can be extremely destructive on a young tree planting
if you are not aware of what plants can survive or even be
immune to frost damage.
Frost damage is at its worse when plants are frozen during
the night and then thaw too quickly at sunrise. If nearby
trees shade your planting’s first thing in the morning
this can provide some frost protection, by allowing them to
gently thaw. Even weed trees maybe worth retaining initially
on a site for this reason.
The key to surviving frosts is using species that are naturally
frost resilient.
Using species that are frost hardy does limit your species
selection initially but fortunately these plants are also
generally very quick growing and within one or two years you
may have developed an improved microclimate that allows you
to establish many other plant species and add diversity to
the site.
Tree guards are often touted as the best way of protecting
your trees from frost damage but the results seem to be very
variable. The best success I have seen is a two-sided guard
up slope of trees, the theory being that they cause the frost
to flow around the trees rather than collecting on them. Only
two sides being protected also exposes the young plant to
less of a ‘softer environment’ and the resulting
tougher growth means greater frost resistance. Various foliar
sprays are also available that can assist with frost resistance
such as Envy TM. But again they are not miracle cures and
it comes back to species selection and choosing plants that
can cope with the conditions existing on your site.
Frost isn’t an unformidable barrier in the re-establishment
of native vegetation but it does require some thought and
planning. Lots of experimenting may be required yet to expand
the diversity of planting’s in frost prone areas and
improve their growth but if you stick with frost hardy species
for the first few years of your revegetation you can’t
go wrong. I was pleased to see a display at Barung Landcare
nursery this week focusing on frost hardy species and they
also have species lists describing the frost tolerance of
variety of plants. This sort of information should be available
from many landcare and private nurseries in your area so pop
in and take advantage of their expertise. And don’t
be left out in the cold when it comes time for your next planting.
Some Frost Hardy Species of the Mary River Catchment
Acacia sp. - Wattle’s
Allocasuarina sp. - She Oak’s
Araucaria sp. - Bunya or Hoop Pine
Callicoma serratifolia - White Alder
Callistemon sp. - Bottlebrushes
Casuarina cunninghamiana - River She Oak
Eucalypt sp. - Gum’s
Grevillea robusta - Silky Oak
Hymenosporum flavum - Native Frangipani
Melia azederach - White Cedar
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Stuck
in the Under Storey
by Spencer Shaw
Often
it is said that we can’t see the wood for the trees
… but I also think that quite often we can’t see
the shrubs for the trees.
Have you ever noticed those straggly, sparse and some may
say spindly( I prefer to say foliage impaired) plants in the
shade of that lovely cool forest you’re strolling through.
More often than not they are not noticed and this is a great
tragedy because there are some fantastic groundcovers and
shrubs hidden in the understorey of our local Eucalypt forest
and Rainforests.
Not all plants ‘suffer’ in the shade, many ferns
often look their best when in the humid environment of the
forest and we have to simulate these conditions in our gardens
to grow them. Shadehouses are a prerequisite for the health
of most ferns and orchids however many of the other plants
that make up the forests understorey positively thrive when
treated to the conditions that many exotic plants in our gardens
take for granted.
Many of the shrubs that make good garden plants would have
previously been seen at their best on forest edges, but with
the arrival of lantana this niche was lost to them and they
have been relegated to the shade of the forest where lantana
(Edgeii taker’overii) cannot dominate.
So for all of you who have wanted to do the right thing and
plant something native to the area but looked at our local
rainforests and thought everything local is at least as tall
as a four storey building, likely to crack foundations, hide
that beautiful view and block out the sun! Well think again.
One of the numerous benefits of a wide range of our local
shrubs is that they fruit and flower early in their lives
(1-2 years) and often profusely. So that not only do we get
some very attractive plants in our gardens but also a myriad
of birds to feed on all the flowers and fruit. When we plant
local plants in our garden we create a beautiful environment
and help restore our local ecology, a win-win situation for
everybody!
Eupomatia
laurina - Bolwarra
Senna acclinis - Bush cassia
Senna sophorae - Bush cassia
Sambucus australasica - Native Elderberry
Callicarpa pendunculata - Velvet leaf
Psychotria loniceroidies - Smooth leaf psychotia
Psychotria daphnoidies - Hairy psychotria
Pipturus argenteus - Native mullberry
Saurops albiflorus - Ferny phylanthus
Pilidiostigma glabrum - Plum myrtle
Pilidiostigma rhytispermum - Small leaf plum myrtle
Archirhodomyrtus becklerii - Rose Myrtle
Decaspermum humile - Silky myrtle
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The
Brush Turkey does not differentiate between weeds and natives,
infact it is thought that lantana could contribute to their
survival as chicks by giving them a prickly pile of stuff
to hide in, although our much maligned native raspberries
Rubus sp. also fill this niche.